Swimming in January

Wednesday, 2 January 2008

Today was a fairly slow and lazy day. During the morning, Laolao and Laoye took Poppet out on a grocery-shopping expedition while I stayed home with Giggles to do schoolwork. Once again, it was a challenge to complete the work, as it was "not fair" that Poppet got to go out and do fun stuff and she didn't. But she managed to get started on it more quickly than yesterday, and focus somewhat better.

One thing that helped was the promise of a swimming expedition in the afternoon. Giggles quite enjoys playing in the water, so this was a good enticement. We ate a simple lunch, then I played with the kids while Laolao and Laoye took a quick nap. By 2:00 we were off. The taxi dropped us off by the front entrance, and as we walked up the covered passageway to the hotel lobby, I remembered walking under that same passageway ten years ago.

When I was in Addis in 1997, I stayed at the Ghion Hotel, which is the top-level Ethiopian-owned hotel. It is not far from the Hilton, down the hill a short distance. Some of the delegates at the meetings I was attending were staying at the Hilton, and several meetings were held there, so we had occasion to walk or take taxi from one to the other several times. It struck me now that much has changed in the intervening ten years. Then, we walked either a "back route" through the Ghion gardens or a slightly longer route along the main roads, which were rough and crumbling, with several gravelly, bumpy patches as we approached the Hilton. Today, the roads are smooth, new pavement with actual sidewalks that appeared to be even and smooth as well. One of the people we know working here told us that over the past ten years the government has made a concerted effort to pave (or repave) 7,000 km of road in the country. They seem to be well on their way to completing the job, from all the smooth, new roads we've seen – and from the major roadwork projects that are to be found everywhere you turn, creating very rough detours and bypasses while they are underway

But ten years ago I did not have occasion to visit the pool at the Hilton – I doubt I even knew it existed. One should perhaps say pools, as there are several of them. One very shallow one, for toddlers and young children; one about a metre deep, for bigger (but still young) kids; one larger deeper one for grown-ups, and another we didn't check out.

The pool complex is outdoors, surrounded by luscious gardens, with lounge chairs along the edge, and tables with canopies to shade from the sun if one tires of swimming. The pools are all fed by natural hotsprings, so they are lovely and warm. (Compared to this, the pools and resort at Wondo Genet pale significantly…)

We stayed in the older children's pool, which was just the right depth for Poppet and Giggles. I expect this was the first time Poppet had ever been swimming, and he quite enjoyed it. It took him a few minutes to get used to the feel of being in the water, and the buoyancy it provides. But he had no fear of it – on the contrary, he kept dunking his face in the water, bouncing up and down, and thoroughly enjoying himself. A small spout of hot water fed this pool; Laolao, Laoye and I enjoyed sitting close to it and soaking up the really, really warm water. Even Poppet liked it – he kept running his hand through water below the spout, or even through the falling water itself, which was quite hot.

After an hour or so, we took an icecream break, then hopped back in the pool for another soak. Finally, at 4:30, we climbed out, somewhat reluctantly. Giggles was all for coming back tomorrow or the next day. I told her we already had plans, but perhaps next week we could come one more time. It is by no means an inexpensive treat. Entry for the five of us, and five ice cream cones, cost 450 birr, or about $50.

Supper was a simple meal at home. For bedtime, I followed much the same routine as last night, with similar results. Okay, that one's figured out – for now at least. We'll have to readjust once we get home, no doubt, but for now it works.

(Continue to 3 January: Transit Visa)